Dior withdrew a skirt from the market after accusations of cultural appropriation

2022-07-30 00:49:19 By : Mr. Winston Fengjun Zhang

The criticized skirt is a pleated piece of wool and mohair, which several Asian social media users say is an imitation of the historical Chinese garment known as "mamianqun" or "horse-faced skirt," despite the fact that the fashion house French described it as a "distinctive Dior silhouette".(CNN) Dior is facing accusations of cultural appropriation after Chinese social media users and protesters outside one of the brand's stores in Paris claimed a $3,800 skirt was inspired by a centuries-old traditional garment.The pleated wool and mohair skirt has drawn comparisons to a historical Chinese garment known as a "mamianqun" or "horse-faced skirt," despite the French fashion house describing it as a "distinct Dior silhouette."The controversy began earlier this month, when Chinese netizens and state media accused the brand of failing to acknowledge the supposed inspiration behind its design.A recent editorial in People's Daily said Dior had "blatantly" misrepresented the skirt as an original creation, describing the social media outrage as "completely understandable".Then the outrage spilled into the streets of Paris last Saturday when a small group of protesters gathered outside one of the brand's boutiques on Avenue des Champs-Élysées.Images and videos shared online show protesters holding signs, written in a mixture of French and English, with messages including "Dior, stop cultural appropriation" and "This is a traditional Chinese dress."Also read: Rihanna applies to register “Fenty Hair”: she would extend her empire to the hair products marketDior did not respond to CNN's request for comment.According to the nationalist tabloid Global Times, the protest was organized by Chinese students based in Paris, who were joined by protesters from other French cities, as well as some from Spain and Italy.Some of the participants appeared to be wearing a form of historical Chinese clothing known as "Hanfu."Several counter-protesters also arrived at the scene with banners referencing China's alleged human rights abuses in Xinjiang.Horse-face skirts date back to the Song dynasty, which began more than 1,000 years ago, although they became popular among women during the later Ming and Qing dynasties.The design features side pleats and slits at both the front and back, making the garments ideal for horse riding.Skirts are often worn by members of China's growing "Hanfu" subculture, along with other attire that resembles clothing traditionally worn by ethnic majority Han Chinese before the Qing dynasty.Dior's skirt is part of its Fall 2022 collection, which the brand has described as a "fascinating exploration of the past, present and future".The item is no longer available for purchase on the fashion house's website.Read also: Mexico asks Shein for explanations for cultural appropriation in one of her blousesAccording to the Global Times, which spoke to several of the protesters, overseas Chinese students are planning future demonstrations in London and New York City.It is not the first time in recent years that Dior has generated outrage in China.In 2019, the label issued an apology for a map of the country, used during a presentation at a Chinese university, that did not include Taiwan (Beijing sees the island as a breakaway province).A statement, posted on the fashion house's Weibo account at the time, blamed an employee for the oversight while expressing his support for China's "sovereignty and territorial integrity."Then last year, social media users criticized a campaign image by celebrity fashion photographer Chen Man, saying his choice of a model with "small eyes" perpetuated negative Western stereotypes about Chinese people.Noting the "sinister" expression in her eyes and the "grim face," an article in the Beijing Daily newspaper at the time asked, "Is this the Asian woman in Dior's eyes?"Dior removed the photo from an exhibition in Shanghai and posted a message on social media expressing respect for "the feelings of the Chinese people."